Canada here we come...

Well it seems a bit strange to be finishing our 7 months of Latin American travel in Puerto Vallarta, a place which really, seems sort of Canadian, right down to the Stanley Cup playoff games on the tvs in the pubs to the Mexican ponchos sporting hockey logos....

Since last I wrote, we made our way through the lovely (and elegant) colonial city of Morelia and then headed to the small coastal town of San Blas 4 hours north of Puerto Vallarta.  We enjoyed our days in that pleasant, friendly and authentically Mexican town full of all sorts of intriguing history... pirate invasions, 100s of years of smuggling and more recently visits from the likes of Ernest Hemingway & Jim Morrison.  A nice town to visit.

horse riding on Playa Borrego, San Blas

The mainstay of the San Blas economy remains fishing & there is no shortage of delicious and inexpensive seafood available.

Also, the Huichol indigenous culture is still very strong in this area.  Nearby Isla del Rey is sacred to the Huichol people who do ceremony to honour Mother Earth.  Here on the seemingly endless beach we discovered the remnants of a recent ceremony.  Many offerings were also tucked in under the rocks, candles, feathers, weavings and other items.

Now in Vallarta, sitting poolside until our flight for Vancouver departs tomorrow, we have pause to reflect on our wanderings over the last 7 months...

In fact, this trip began a long time before our departure with all the planning, thinking and decision making we had to do... where and when to go?  How would we afford it?  How scary would it be?  Would it be safe?  What about school demands?  What about our house?  .....

What about our lives?  We spent months planning passports, bills, budget, vaccinations and medications (many which we found to be unnecessary), insurance.... it was a long list, and I realize now, I kind of need these couple of days to sit around here in Vallarta and do nothing.  Time for reflection and relaxation... We are kind of overwhelmed by the magnitude of the experiences we have had and the beautiful people we have met along the way, many of whom who have been incredibly inspiring.  Some friends have said - it will take a while to process it all and realize the full impact of this trip on all of our lives.  I think they are right. 



All I can say is, I am glad we did it.... and when we get back to Canada, the adventure will continue...

Now, it is time to explore & fully appreciate the incredible beauty of our own homeland.
Canada, here we come ...

turtles, sacred space and a blue house in Mexico

I have not written in a while, mostly due to technical issues.... no adequate computer, troubles downloading over 1100 photos, busy travel schedule.... but we are on the go again and since last time I wrote, have covered quite a bit of territory in Mexico.

Our travels have basically taken us north.  We started out in the Yucatan and have now made it to the Michoacan province to the west of Mexico City.  En route we traveled through Oaxaca, Puebla and Mexico City.

After the beautiful Chiapas coast, we headed to the Oaxacan coast which is incredible, rugged and spectacular.  We really enjoyed our time there and made our base out of lovely tranquil Mazunte.

Here is a photo of hiking on Punta Cometa along a string of lovely beaches.  This punta is a great place from which to watch both sunrises & sunsets over the ocean.

Mazunte is a particularly interesting town due to the fact it completely recreated itself and its economic base which goes to show, no particular economic approach needs to remain static and frozen in time... whereas once there was a massive sea turtle slaughterhouse in the Mazunte region, there is now a great Turtle Centre there and the burgeoning tourism industry focuses on taking tourists out onto the ocean to see the massive sea turtles, dolphins and passing whales.  These guys really know how to manoeuvre their boats through the pounding surf and rocky shoreline.

From Mazunte, we carried on over a particularly windy mountainous route to the regal (and interesting) city of Oaxaca where colonial and indigenous cultures meet in an extraordinary (and sometimes explosive) way... the indigenous cultures in this area are incredibly strong and independent.  The people still have strong connections to their land, connections which are sometimes at odds with a vision for the area imposed by outsiders.

While we were there, there was a demonstration in the main plaza (Zocalo) demanding full investigations into the disappearance and killings of people from nearby communities who have spoken out against damaging projects.  One recent incident included a Canadian mining company operation in nearby San Jose el Progreso which we were told by the people protesting, is supported by the Mexican government but opposed by the local people who were never consulted.  One local Zapotec leader who was outspoken in opposing this mining project, Bernardo Mendez Vasquez, was recently killed, and the many people are calling for justice for his death.  Since this occurrence, there has also been a protest outside the Canadian embassy in Mexico city calling for a full investigation into his death and respect for indigenous rights.

Despite calls from many human rights organizations for the Canadian government to regulate mining companies operating overseas, that has yet to happen and has been deemed by the current Canadian government as unnecessary and as such, these embarrassing moments of being a Canadian citizen traveling into these regions may continue to occur until these injustices are remedied...  In this moment all we could do was look into these people's sad eyes and apologize for the actions of our country.

From Oaxaca, we traveled to the colonial city of Puebla.  Puebla is full of impressive colonial buildings.  Here is a shot taken inside the cathedral during Semana Santa, the Easter lilies on the altar glowing in the low-angle afternoon light streaming in the window.

We then went to nearby Cholula for a couple of days.  The widest & largest ancient pyramid of the Americas is here with a colonial chapel,  Capilla de la Virgen de los Remedios, built right on top of it.  It is unclear whether or not the Spaniards realized this was a pyramid (as it would have been overgrown already and appears like a large hill) when they built the chapel.  Here is a shot from the chapel with smoking Volcan Popo in the background.

Then it was on to Mexico City... the big city.... what a place.  We timed it nicely because Semana Santa (the Easter holiday) is the quietest time in the city as many of the city's residents vacate the city to vacation elsewhere.

Mexico City has historically been known for its air quality problems and while there is still some smog in the air, we also noted various attempts to clean up the environment there, and overall, Mexico City is nowadays a pleasant, interesting and cosmopolitan city.  Here is one of the pedal cabs operating in the downtown historic centre.  There is also an efficient (and cheap) metro covering much of the city and bikes for rent from kiosks all over the city.  On Sundays, the 2 inside lanes of the main street Paseo de la Reforma are closed to autos and are instead filled with some pedestrians and many cyclists.  We spent a bit of time wandering down the side of this bicycle-filled street and noticed how happy people looked, how much safer the streets felt and how people (of various social backgrounds) were all socializing with each other.  To do away with automobiles from public space and replace them with bicycles and pedestrians makes astounding change.

On Easter Sunday we went to the Cerro de Tepeyac / Basilica de Guadalupe.  In ancient times, it is said this place was a temple to an Aztec goddess and nowadays it is a shrine in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the Patron of Mexico and is scattered with a series of ornate churches in her honour.  On our travels through Mexico (and even in South America), we have encountered shrines to the Virgin of Guadalupe everywhere, even in some very obscure places.  She does indeed bind Mexico together.  Reverance for the Virgin Mary is strong throughout Latin America.

The location of the basilica does indeed feel like sacred space.  It is said that in the 1500s, Mary appeared to a local indigenous man by the name of Juan Diego.  Where she stood, it is said, a spring appeared and the waterfalls seen cascading down the rocks in this picture originates from that same spring.  The place is gorgeous and peaceful, full of trees, roses, birds, butterflies and bees.  Indeed it is a space where peaceful power may be felt.

Downtown Mexico, we saw lots of well-attired people.  For male shoppers, there is seemingly no end to suit shops.  Here is one of the well-appointed characters downtown in suit and fedora.

We went to the Museum of Anthropology which is situated in a large city park, Bosque Chapultepec.  Here, we saw the jade death mask and jewels taken from the tomb of King Pakal at theTemplo de los Inscripciones at Palenque ruins (we earlier visited Palenque while in the Chiapas).  The museum provides an excellent historic & contemporary overview of the incredible diversity and wealth of Mexican indigenous cultures.

Before leaving Mexico City, we took a bus tour to get to Frida Kahlo's Blue House in the suburb of Coyacan.  The artist Frida is one of the most famous artists in the world and her up and down relationship with famous Mexican muralist Diego Rivera is legendary.  This blue is an interesting colour, lonely, startling, ominous and exciting.  Within the walls of this house and coping with great pain suffered as a result of polio and a subsequent trolley bus accident, Frida lived many of her days and created many of her interesting pieces of art.

Peyote Song

The blue flowers.

The blue flowers

which are

behind the mountains

which are talking,

which are talking.

You

who claim to know it all,

interpret them,

interpret them.

some thoughts about staying put & moving on...

After a month spent in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, it was time to hit the road and so we did.
There's a time to stay and a time to move on...

We decided to check out some Chiapas beaches.  The information we had was cryptic at best... usually a good sign (means that most people don't go there...)
First we headed down to the beaches near the little-known Reserva de la Encrucijada which is a beautiful & wild area of the south Mexican Pacific.  Lots of birds, crocodiles, mangroves... and miles of wild Pacific.

How great to be back at the Pacific Ocean... reminds me of home! 
Here's the view from our $25 per night beachfront cabaña.

  

  And here is an interesting character we met just down from the Reserva Encrucijada.  The locals call him / her anda solo.  Shy but curious.

Then further up the Chiapas coast to Boca del Cielo where we got FREE oceanfront camping under a palapa (provided we ate in the restaurant of the folks who erected the palapa...)  Here's our spot.

Gotta wash the sand off us!
We left there today and are now headed up to the more touristy Oaxaca beaches...

Yes indeed, there is a time to stay.... and a time to go.....

Infant marine turtle (golfina) heading out to its

fate in the vast & wild Pacific Ocean



10 things I love about San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

We are fortunate enough to be able to spend a month living in San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico, one of the nicest and most enjoyable cities I have ever visited.  What a great vibe and energy.  Wondering why? Well... here are some of the particular things I love....

1.  Pedestrian routes through town....  
Here is Real de Guadelupe, one of the main pedestrian routes through the city, heading directly to the main plaza which is of course a great social gathering spot for all ages and social groups.  It is really interesting how pedestrians simply stream toward this street and it has a vibrancy & fun vibe to it not easily replicated on the sidewalk alongside a busy automobile route.  Oh, and speed bumps... great idea.  All they are are raised pieces of concrete that completely slow motorized vehicles as they approach pedestrian & bike-crossing routes.  What an excellent concept..... and very simple....

2.  Socially progressive collective use of spaces...
Here is just one among several spots.  In this place on Real de Guadelupe, one can find an organic vegetarian restaurant, small movie theatre (showing locally relevant socio-political movies), Spanish school & office for international pediatric association. In other spot, I came across a bartering market (no exchange of money, just goods, mostly handcrafted), bike fix-it & rental place and bicycle-powered machine manufacturer.  There is a heightened kind of social consciousness in this city perhaps brought about the interesting blend of people who show up here & the inspiring & liveable setting.

3.  $4 yoga classes 3 blocks from our house...
Yet another interesting collective space where yoga, meditation, reiki & various workshops and courses all exist together in harmony.  The schedule of hatha and ashtanga yoga is really regular and convenient.  A great way to start the day!

4.  Gorgeous jewelry - local amber, jade, turquoise, lapiz, red coral - all at great prices.

5.  Even more gorgeous textiles & embroidery - and strong local indigenous (Mayan) cultures...
The elaborate clothes worn (and sold) by the indigenous people are gorgeous - and inexpensive.  Many of the blouses and dresses are hand-stitched, an increasingly rare artform.

6.  Fabulous market
Where just about everything food can be bought (that is.... locally grown gorgeous veggies, fruit & even Chiapas coffee).  Here is a just a shot but this market goes on forever and it is brilliant.  A bit of an overwhelming place in which to manouevre but definitely worth it in terms of knowing local campesinos livelihoods are being supported & you are getting an absolutely great deal in terms of food value.  Here is just a glimpse.

7.  Strong local indigenous cultures... Mayan.
This photo is actually taken 11 kilometers up the road from San Cristobal, in the small town of Chamula.  The indigenous cultures are also very evident and strong in San Cristobal.  Many indigenous people from the nearby mountain towns come into this city to sell their gorgeous wares (many elaborate & skillfully designed textiles) and produce in town.  This church in the backdrop (Chamula) is interesting because it has completely been taken over by traditional Mayan spiritual ceremonies.  Although some of the Christian saints are still evident, John the Baptist takes the place of honour over the altar.  The elaborate Mayan ceremonies involve pine needles, candles and other procedures which are ancient and complex.  I am told that the Catholic priest is rarely allowed into the church.  We had to pay to enter and were absolutely not permitted to take any photos within the walls of the church. 

8.  Ornate and brightly coloured (picturesque) colonial buildings
Here is a photo of the Santo Domingo church near downtown San Cristobal.  Outside this church with its ornately decorated facade, is a daily artesans' and crafts market.  The architecture throughout the city is great.

9.  Funky restaurants, cafes & bookstores...
Here is a shot of a great bookstore in town, La Pared.  After months of travelling in Latin America, what a joy it was to come across a full wall of books IN ENGLISH!  There are all sorts of great places to read, hang out, eat, drink..etc etc around here.  Very liveable city.

10.  Proximity to everthing Chiapas
There are plenty of beautiful places to see throughout the Chiapas and San Cristobal makes a great base of exploration.  We decided to take a couple of tours out of San Cristobal.  Yesterday we got out to the Cañon de Sumidero, full of crocodiles, birds and interesting rock formations.... here's a shot taken during our two-hour boat ride through the canyon.

We will be here in San Cristobal until early March, then we will be moving on.  It is hard to believe there are now less than 2 months left before we will be returning to Canada!

Exploring Mayan ruins deep within the Chiapas jungle

Early February 2012 spent wandering the grounds of jungle-clad Mayan ruins deep in the Chiapas region of Mexico.  This area is most recently famous for the Zapatista campesino uprising of the 1990s led by sub-commando Marcos.  You probably remember his black balaclava pipe-smoking image gracing the covers of many media outlets during that period of time.  Although the activism has mellowed over the years, one can still feel a strong Zapatista presence in this region as evidenced by the signs dotted here and there which read something along the lines of "this is Zapatista territory."  Correspondingly, the Mexican military presence is also very strong, particularly on the major routes heading to the nearby Guatemalan border.  Sorry - no pictures of them.  One Danish tourist got hauled off our bus for taking video footage of a military checkpoint and was made to delete it all.

Our first stop in the Chiapas was Palenque where we stayed in a jungle-surrounded $15/ night cabaña not too far from the ruins.  Every night there I was lulled to sleep by the sound of jungle insects and the haunting call of howler monkeys off in the distance.  The howler monkeys are like the protectors of these magical ruins and are every bit as mystical.

Before heading to the Palenque ruins, we took a tour to see Yaxchilan down the Usumacinta River on the Guatemalan border then headed to Bonampak on the edge of the Lacandan jungle of Mexico. 

What makes Yaxchilan particularly special is that the only access is by boat down the river... otherwise the place is surrounded by jungle.

Here is a shot of one of the beautiful buildings which I imagine, sits empty of humans and enjoyed by bats and the howler monkeys when the rest of us are gone.  This is the lofty and regal Acropolis which stands tall up a steep set of steps, above the rest of this site.

Then to Bonampak where we are greeted by some of the Lacandan people who have full control over access in and out of this particular area.  The Lacandan are an amazing group of indigenous people who wearing striking white tunics and who were never colonized by the Spaniards.  They lived peacefully and in harmony with their jungle home until the 1950s when outsiders started to make inroads into this jungle area, some in search of agricultural opportunities and wood sources.  Since then their jungle home - and traditional culture - has been under constant threat.  We could tell that the Lacandan people who mind Bonampak had a definite reverance for the place.  To enter the rooms where these astonishing ancient murals are found in one of the temples, men were requested to remove their hats.  These are sacred and powerful places.

 Then we returned to Palenque, an astonishing site.  The sacred energy resonating through this site is reminiscent of Machu Picchu.  The most famous building of this site is probably the Templo de los Inscripciones which is a massive temple and tomb-site for a king by the name of Pakal whose jade-clad tomb was found deep within.

 What I really appreciate about these ancient Mayan cultures is the reverance for the natural world and the knowledge of the stars and planets.  They were truly connected to their environment.  The ceiba tree according to Mayan beliefs is said to hold up the heavens and is a very sacred tree.  I love how certain trees have grown right on top of some of the ruins of Palenque, spreading their intricate roots around the ancient blocks....

And now we are in San Cristobal de las Casas, a very pleasant city in the Chiapas.  We have rented a place here for a month.   More soon....

more from the Yucatan in Mexico & moving on...

After enjoying the sugary white sands of the Mexican Caribbean coast for almost 2 weeks and snorkelling the deep cavernous sacred cenotes of this area, we are just about ready to head out of the Yucatan to other parts of Mexico.

We did get to the ruins of Tulum which are particularly scenic due to their location right on the coast.  This site is said to be dedicated to Venus.  Tulum is an interesting area and this year in particular, is attracting many people from all over the world drawn by the special sacred energy of the area and the 2012 Mayan prophecy which foretells massive changes toward the end of this year.  We have enjoyed meeting some truly inspiring spiritual people during our time here.

We were thinking maybe iguanas established and caretake the ruins of Tulum because they are everywhere.

We also got 45 minutes inland to the small Mayan town of Coba which also has a fantastic set of ruins and boasts the tallest pyramid on the Yucatan peninsula at 42 meters.

And here is the intrepid climber heading down the pyramid just before we were hit by heavy rains.

So now, we are headed to Palenque, another Mayan ruin in the jungles of Mexico on the way to the Chiapas area.  We are scheduled to leave Tulum this afternoon on a 12 hour bus.

Adios for now, amigos y amigas.

Om... from the Mexican Caribbean

these days see us hanging out on a gorgeous white sand beach near Tulum, Mexico...

For my part, I am doing yoga, writing, reading and finding bliss between the still-lingering jungle, hidden cenote at the tent camp where we are staying and the ocean surf.

Om.....

Seriously.  A view from a short walk away from the tent where we are staying, lulled to sleep each night by the sound of wind in the trees and the ocean surf.

This is a truly awesome area where we are encountering all sorts of wise and spiritually engaged Canadian 'refugees' who seem for the most part to be hiding out from how corporatized and materialistic they see their country becoming... 

I am not quite so ready to permanently leave beautiful Canada but for now, hanging out here will surely do.

We have a sand engineer with us who is creating architectural delights on the beach every day.



The cenote is a sacred deep well of water long revered by the Mayan people.  Here is a sunset shot taken on the secret cenote beside our tent camp.

Before we got to Tulum, we travelled through Lima, Miami (South Beach) and Cancun to get here.  I enjoyed South Beach the most.  It was fun to immerse ourselves in the Art Deco vibe of the place and the interesting classic Hollywood (and gangster) history dating back to the 1930s.  Although expensive it was just fun, especially after many lengthy bumpy bus rides through Bolivia and Peru.

Here is one of the hotels on Ocean Drive in Miami.  I enjoyed doing some artsy photography of these intriguing buildings all with stories to tell.

There is something called 'travel weariness' which can set in with jumping on so many buses and planes and staying in so many different places, and although we are loving and learning so much from our travels, we are also realizing the beauty of staying put and relaxing in a beautiful place for a while, so for now, here we are.....

Om....